Thursday, September 20, 2012

A brief note on reading ingredient labels.

Remember this?



While Breyer's was certainly on to something, I do want to point out that simply not being able to pronounce an ingredient is not immediate cause for avoiding it.  Particularly when reading labels for products that contain many herbal ingredients, you're going to be seeing a lot of Latin that you may not understand.  And that's (usually) okay.

Take my favorite Miessence product, the Rejuvenating Skin Conditioner, for example.  If the label didn't list the herbal ingredients by their English names as well, the only things I would understand are Aloe and Aqua.  Many toothpastes and deodorants, both traditional formulations and more natural ones, include sodium bicarbonate, often listed as bicarb (of) soda in Commonwealth countries, but this is just plain old baking soda.  Sometimes a little biology or chemistry is required to understand the labels, and that's okay.

It is VERY important to be an informed consumer.  If you don't know what something is that is in one of your products, whether it is food, skin care, hair care, or anything else, look it up!  We are all busy people, I know, but the Internet has made this SO easy that there's really almost no excuse anymore.  A simple search will give a good sense of whether an ingredient is generally considered safe or not.  It takes about 15 seconds to get an idea, and if you are interested you can spend more time delving into the details.  Consumers becoming informed and knowledgeable is also what leads to businesses pushing for better, safer products. 

And if you aren't sure, ask me!  I can't promise that I will know the answer right away, but I would be honored if you would trust me to look into a specific ingredient for you.  We're all in this together, right?

Hall of Shame: Propylene Glycol

Our lead off Hall of Shame baddie ingredient is one that's going to sort of ease us into it.  I don't want to scare you all off SO badly right off the bat, and propylene glycol is a toxic ingredient that is a little bit "less" toxic than some others.

Propylene glycol is found in SO MANY personal care products.  Most commonly deodorant, but also hair colorants, moisturizers, anti-aging treatments, pharmaceuticals, and artificial smoke/fog, to name a few.  The Environmental Working Groups has over 5500 products listed that include propylene glycol.

What is this stuff?  Well, like any other chemical ending in "ol," it is an alcohol, which is an organic compound (a molecule containing carbon, not a large farm with a bunch of compost piles) that contains a "hydroxyl functional group" (an oxygen atom bound to a hydrogen atom, or -OH).  Aren't you glad you skipped organic chemistry?  It is used a humectant, meaning that it draws moisture to itself, and thus whatever surface it is applied to.  It is also known as a "penetration enhancer," and not in a good way!  This is where propylene glycol's safety rating on the Skin Deep Database gets a little confusing...in and of itself, it's really not that bad, so it gets a 3.  But it paves the way for other chemicals to more easily get through your skin's barrier and into your bloodstream.  It's the gateway drug of cosmetic ingredients, if you will.

Propylene glycol isn't going to give you cancer (that we know of).  It's direct safety issues are pretty minimal, and are mostly related to being an irritant, but it can also cause some internal organ problems with your kidneys or liver (the organs that clean and filter your insides).  Some people are allergic to it.  The question arises when wondering what else it is letting into your system. 

There are many scholarly articles online about propylene glycol and its safety.  Unfortunately, most of them are .pdf links and are therefore difficult for me to link you to, but I've gone ahead and done the search for you here.

Oh, one other use of propylene glycol is as a viscosity stabilizer.  It keeps products a constant viscosity at a wide range of temperatures.  This property also comes in handy in it's main non-cosmetic use--a "less toxic" form of antifreeze.  Food for thought.

Non-toxic alternative ingredients to propylene glycol range far and wide.  This is because of the many different uses.  For example, if propylene glycol is used as a solid deodorant base, one might look for a roll-on that does not require a solid base.  If it is used as an emollient, you might see jojoba oil, almond oil, or glycerin instead.  Having said that, the average consumer is probably not likely to know what purpose the inclusion of propylene glycol in a product's formulation serves.  I say, just avoid the stuff entirely and cross it off your list of things to worry about!

Monday, September 17, 2012

Make Buy Skip: Toothpaste

Okay, I'll come right out and say it, so we can get it out of the way: why would "skip" be an option when it comes to toothpaste?  The truth is, toothpaste isn't strictly necessary.  This is NOT to say that brushing isn't necessary!  Please please PLEASE do not stop brushing your teeth!!!  That's just gross.  Seriously.  But you can actually do it without toothpaste, if you're so inclined.

According to my own personal dentist, as well as this article by dental hygienist Vicky Flint, the reasons for using toothpaste are as follows:

1. Flavor/fresh sensation
2. Fluoride (a controversial subject at best)
3. Special needs like whitening or sensitivity.

That's it!  Personally, I like the flavor/freshness enough that it is certainly important to me to include toothpaste as part of my brushing routine, but if none of these three factors are important to you, by all means SKIP the toothpaste (just not the brushing).

Now for the hard part: if you decide you need/want it should you MAKE or BUY your toothpaste?

I will say first that if you have any special dental needs, I suggest that you defer to what your dentist recommends.  I am in no way a dental professional.  I have consulted my own dentist in collecting information for this post and in reaching my own personal decision, and suggest you do the same.

So what are factors to consider when it comes to making or buying?  Well, as always, there is the time factor.  Unless you are running out to the store solely to purchase toothpaste, making your own will certainly involve more time.  Not much time, but it will require time.  Time is money, but money spent is also a factor.  How much does your preferred toothpaste cost, and how much can you get the ingredients to make toothpaste for?  Speaking of ingredients, this is possibly the factor that will lead you to make your own more than any other.  We'll get to that more in a moment...  Flavor plays an important role for me, as it's the reason I don't skip it altogether.  There is an "ease of use" factor.  And finally, I don't know exactly what to call this aspect, but for me, conventional toothpaste actually burns my mouth.  The soft tissues inside my mouth (cheeks, gums, palate, etc) are sensitive enough that regular old Crest and Colgate irritate and burn them.  Perhaps we'll call it the burn factor for lack of a better term?

Are there any other factors that influence your decision that I've forgotten?

How to make your own toothpaste?  How are we to decide whether to make or buy if we don't know what making it entails, right?  The internet is full of recipes for homemade toothpastes, as well as "tooth powders" and other tooth cleaning aids.  The one that I prefer for myself is this one from Crunchy Betty, with some variations.  It's easy, quick, inexpensive, and involves just a few ingredients.  It's also approved by my dentist, and I love that vote of confidence.

The variations that are mine are to use silica in the form of diatomaceous earth in place of baking soda, and xylitol in place of stevia. 

I use diatomaceous earth instead of baking soda primarily because I have a greywater system where the water drains from my bathroom sink straight to the garden, and so I can't put anything with chemicals or sodium down the drain.  This is actually why I make my own toothpaste to begin with, as any traditional toothpaste has too many chemicals, and all natural toothpastes I've found include baking soda.  I also only use half as much as the recipe calls for, because in the original form my dentist felt it was too abrasive and would damage my enamel.  Diatomaceous earth has many other useful properties around the house--it can be used as a flea powder and added as a supplement to food (that's a subject for a different kind of blog).  Amazon is a good resource, and you should ALWAYS look for "food grade" if it is going into your mouth.

I use xylitol because it has strong benefits for teeth and is natural.  It's also not super expensive--I got mine from Amazon for a decent price.  It adds a nice sweet flavor to your toothpaste, though strictly speaking it's not necessary.  Just keep in mind that xylitol is HIGHLY toxic to dogs.  You thought chocolate was toxic?  Chocolate ain't got nothin on xylitol.  If you have a dog, keep it out of their reach and promptly clean up any spills.

I do choose to go for the optional gycerin, as I think it adds something to the texture, as well as some sweetness.   You kind find this on Amazon or from any grocery or drug store with a natural skin care section.

This toothpaste tastes great and works well.  At my last checkup, my dentist complimented me on my dental hygiene--woohoo!  You can change up the flavor however you like with various essential oils.  The drawback to it is that...how do I put this nicely?...it looks like mud!  It probably wouldn't look like mud if I used baking soda instead of diatomaceous earth, but since DE is a component of dirt, mud it is.  It is also susceptible to fluctuations in temperature.  Coconut oil has a melting point of 76 degrees, so if you don't have a temperature controlled environment, some days your toothpaste may be rock solid and others it may be a goopy mess.   As a result, getting it onto the toothbrush can be a little bit of a pain in the butt.

You'll notice that there's no source of fluoride in here.  I actually don't have an opinion yet on topical fluoride (fluoridated water seems more clear cut to me), but I figure since I have fairly strong teeth anyway (only one cavity in my life!), I'm okay to risk going without until I know more.  I do highly encourage you to do your homework as to what ingredients are in the toothpaste you're currently using.  Consult the Skin Deep Database if you are looking for more information about a particular ingredient.

That's the toothpaste I use at home.  However, because it's kind of a pain to deal with, I bring a tube of actual toothpaste with me when I travel and don't need to worry about sodium down the drain.  I would much rather use a pre-made toothpaste with ingredients I understand than go through the hassle of using my own (making it is easy, it's the using it that can be annoying).  I choose Miessence toothpaste in the mint flavor; again, I look for the fresh feeling from my toothpaste so it's mint all the way, but lemon and anise are also options.  It is a little bit salty from the inclusion of both baking soda and sea salt, and I've found that the saltiness has grown on me and I feel like it helps my mouth feel soothed rather than irritated like conventional toothpastes.

toothpaste made with all natural ingredients and without fluoride
All natural mint toothpaste

What's your take on it?  Do you make, buy, or skip the toothpaste, and why?

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Hall of Shame and the Skin Deep Database

By now, you've hopefully seen my Ingredient Spotlight series, where I highlight an ingredient found in Miessence products.

Today, I introduce you to the ingredient Hall of Shame, where we'll discuss various "baddies," ingredients you WON'T find in Miessence products.  These products, or lack thereof, are really what differentiates these wonderful products from others you may be using.

A jumping-off point I'll be using when discussing these baddies is the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Database.  While not perfect, this searchable database provides the average consumer with a huge repository of information about specific ingredients and the products they use, allowing people without advanced degrees in chemistry (what, you don't have one either?) to really understand what they're putting on their skin.

You might also catch some overlap with my "Make Buy Skip" series, as a huge factor in NOT buying a product has to do with junky Hall of Shame ingredients.

Some of the ingredients we'll tackle first:
Propylene Glycol (found in most commercial deodorants; also: antifreeze)
Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate (found in most commercial shampoos and soaps)
Silicone derivatives (found in most commercial hair conditioners and moisturizers)
Fragrance (oh the mystery!)

I hope you'll join me next week when we hit up propylene glycol first!

Monday, September 3, 2012

Ingredient Spotlight: Rose

"Amber Flush" hybrid rose  Source: Wikipedia


Everything's coming up roses!

A rose by any other name would smell as sweet.

Stop and smell the roses...

Roses are almost mythical in their sensuality, fragrance, symbolism, and romance.  These characteristics are well deserved and earn roses a place in many Miessence products.

Some fun facts about roses...

Most roses that we in the States are familiar with are hybrid roses, not bred before 1867.  These roses were bred for their beautiful flowers, and roses from varieties known pre-1867 are known as "old" roses, heritage roses, antique roses, and various other names indicating age.  One particular type of old rose is the Damask rose.

Damask Roses  Source: Wikipedia
Damask roses tend to be a little rangier, but more than make up for it with their strongly scented flowers.  These are the flowers that are used to make rose essential oil.

So we know roses are fragrant, but did you know they've been used to unite a divided people?  The
war of the roses wasn't just an interesting movie, but also a series of wars fought over the throne of England?  The house of Lancaster was represented by the red rose, the house of York by the white, and they fought for the throne in spurts between 1455 and 1485.  Eventually, Henry Tudor won it for the Lancasters when he defeated King Richard III and married Elizabeth of York, and the Tudor Rose was created, blending the two houses.

Not an egg in the middle: the Tudor Rose  Source: Wikipedia

Nobody has ever managed to actually breed a Tudor Rose, but nonetheless the rose's place in history is cemented as a symbol of peace and unity.

So we know about the rose's epic fragrance and visual beauty. but what about the taste?  Yes, taste!  Those of you unfamiliar with Middle Eastern cuisine might not know that roses feature prominently.  Persian desserts are often flavored with rose water, and spice shops around the Middle East traditionally offer their own proprietary blend of herbs and spices known as Ras el hanout, which often includes rosebuds.

Not to be outdone, Mexican cuisine also has a delicacy called Quail in Rose Petal Sauce, featured in Laura Esquivel's Como Agua Para Chocolate (Like Water For Chocolate) and the film of the same name.  In this story, the roses contain all of Tita's forbidden passion for Pedro, and everyone at the table (including her mother!) is, shall we say, overcome.  The end result was Tita's sister Gertrudis catching the ranch shower on fire from her heat, being rescued by a revolutionary soldier, and going on to become an officer in the army herself.  I can't promise the same results, but you can sure try by making it yourself!

Quail in Rose Petal Sauce  Source: Cooking with the Movies

So we have sight, smell, taste...how about touch?  Roses have a multitude of benefits for the skin (why we're talking about it in the first place!), including offering soothing relief to sunburn, and being good for both dry and oily skin.  Rose oil is very nourishing and moisturizing for dry skin, while having a mild astringent quality to tone oily skin.  The antibacterial properties of roses also make it an effective treatment for acne.

WOW!  What can't this beautiful flower do?

Just some of the gorgeous Miessence products that contain roses in some form or another...

Rose-scented Nourishing Hand Cream
Nourishing Hand Cream

Use in heat, cold, or windy conditions
Rejuvenessence Facial Serum for tired, stressed, or aging skin

Translucent makeup setting powder
Translucent Powder to set your makeup

Rose-scented mineral foundation
All the Miessence foundations

Rejuvenating Moisturizer
Hydrating skin conditioner for dry or mature skin
Rejuvenating Skin Conditioner (my favorite product!)

Great hydration for air travel or air conditioning
And the obvious choice: Rose Monsoon Hydrating Mist


So that's all for now!  I hope you learned something new about roses and are excited to try one of these lovely rosy products!